Grinning Bhairaba from the 9th-century Chausathi Jogini Deula, Hirapur. Imagine sitting face-to-face him on a dark moonless night, away from the commotion of the village, only a flickering earthen lamp and your ritual paraphernalia with you. Enough for several nightmares. Look at the eyes, the fangs and the composed grin — the excruciating detail of Kalinga’s sculptors continues to surprise me.

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